Happy Ramadan!

Today was the first day of Ramadan. Well, technically it started at sundown last night, but today was the first day of fasting. Turkey is 99% muslim. I learned today that Ramadan shifts back 10 days every year, so some years it's in the summer when the days are long and some years it's in the winter. I also learned today that the language that most closely resembles Turkish is Korean because they both came from Central Asia. Who knew?

I awoke early this morning when Lydia's alarm went off for her two breakfast meetings with Turkish VCs. I went down to the lobby in search of some breakfast. I knew I wanted to avoid paying 50 euro for the hotel breakfast buffet so I ordered a (still egregiously expensive) coffee and omelette and ate it on the gazebo at the hotel overlooking the Bosphorus. I'm still so taken by how blue the sea and the sky are here. After so much eating during my time here, I was itching to work out, so I hit the gym and did 30 minutes of elliptical, 5 km of running, and lifted a few weights and felt much better. Then Lydia and I decided to sit by the pool for a bit before lunch. The pool is the crown jewel of this hotel - it is an infinity pool so it looks like it empties into the Bosphorus. I find myself commenting about 12 times a day how amazingly beautiful Istanbul is, how blue and clear the sky and the sea are, how unpolluted it is...seriously, this place is amazing.

We were trying to meet up with Matt, another guest from the wedding, for lunch and also coordinate with our GSB classmates Ayse and Gorkem so I went to Sultanahmet to meet up with Matt and Lydia went to Bebek to meet up with Ayse and Gorkem. Matt and I had lunch at the rooftop restaurant at his hotel in Sultanahmet, which had a fabulous view of the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofia, and the Bosphorus. We had a meze appetizer platter with hummus, stuffed grapeleaves, eggplant, and potato salad and then a mixed grill kebab platter with kofta, lamb, steak, and chicken. Lydia emailed us saying she would be late so we went to the Basilica Cistern, an ancient underground cistern in the middle of the city.

We went back to the hotel to wait for Lydia, Ayse, and Gorkem, who then called us to say they were stuck in traffic. While we were waiting, I checked my email on a computer in the lobby and discovered that the Turkish keyboard is different from the English keyboard. Some other wedding guests (and new San Francisco French friends) Pierre-Henri and his wife Sandrine had texted Matt to say there were going to the Spice Market, so we hopped on the tram to the Spice Market. Like many major cities, Istanbul has an unfortunate traffic problem so the city has created an excellent public transportation system: buses, trams, metros, and ferries all provide attractive and efficient alternatives to cars. The tram ride was quick and cost 1.5 YTL ($1). Our first stop was a famous Ottoman confectioner for some Turkish delights. Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir is supposed to have the best Turkish delights in Istanbul, so I bought a few boxes of assorted delights and sampled the rose flavored one. The rose was nice, but I like it when they have nuts in them.

As soon as we'd gotten our Turkish delights, we got a call that everyone was now at the Grand Bazaar, so we hopped back on the tram to go back to the Grand Bazaar. We found Ayse, Lydia, Gorkem, Sandrine, and Pierre-Henri. Ayse asked what we were interested in buying, and I pulled out my list. Everyone found it hilarious that I had made a list...clearly, they don't know me very well. Unfortunately, I didn't have any luck finding things on my list, but hopefully before I leave I'll find something I like! I'm very picky about shopping when I travel - I've wound up with way too much stuff I don't need from random parts of the world.

After lots of hoofing it around the bazaar, we stopped for a rest at the Fez Cafe. I Ayse, Gorkem, and I ordered a traditional Turkish drink that was salty yogurt with mint. Gorkem ordered two of them. We then realized Lydia needed to get back to the hotel for a dinner meeting she had arranged. Unfortunately, it was peak traffic time in Istanbul and we realized it would be faster to take the ferry than a taxi. We rushed to the tram to take us to the ferry. For 1.50 YTL ($1), the ferry takes you from Eminomu to Besiktas, a 15 minute journey by water that can take over an hour by taxi if the traffic is bad (if only I'd known this my first day!) We watched the sunset behind the mosques and palaces, creating an elegant dimpled skyline. As we pulled into Besiktas, two dolphins leaped through the air as if on cue. Once off the ferry, it was a 10 minute walk to the hotel. Now we're relaxing by the pool, hearing the strains of the hotel jazz pianist in the background, watching boats float by on the Bosphorus. I could stay here forever!